Sunday, September 13, 2009
Roasted Brussels Sprouts with Pancetta on Creamy Polenta
Brussels sprouts get a bad rap. Stinky little cabbages! Well, if you really don't like cabbage, or broccoli for that matter you probably won't really ever like brussels sprouts. It's like cilantro... you either love it or hate it, no in between about it.
I am a proponent of the roast them method. I find that they do not smell cabbagey this way, they're crispy, and they do taste delicious.
Choose the small, firm, compact sprouts. Those of equal size ensure that they will cook evenly. My mother told me to select ones that feel heavy for their size. Use color as an indicator of freshness. Brussels sprouts should be bright green with leaves that look fresh.
Polenta is one of the foods I fondly remember from my childhood. Specifically, I remember my aunt Tess making the Italian, loaf style polenta. At the table she would slice the steaming loaf with string and serve it with the accompanying meat's gravy or tomato sauce. It was so yummy.
Aunt Tess and Uncle Ralph had a dog named Corky. Corky used to lie in the kitchen doorway waiting for a taste of something delicious while aunt Tess would cook for hours, and speak to him in Italian. It was always well worth the wait for Corky and for us.
Polenta is traditionally a slowly cooked dish involving a lot of stirring. No instant polenta here. After cooking it can be shaped into cakes, or other shapes and fried in oil until it is golden brown and crispy, or even grilled. I like it smooth, soft and creamy, making an essentially bland and common food soul soothing.
This recipe is in two parts. Make just the sprouts or just the creamy polenta. Best bet, make both.
Brussels Sprouts with Pancetta
Makes four servings.
Ingredients
1 pound fresh brussels sprouts
4 tablespoons good olive oil
1/4 pound pancetta, cut thick and sliced into 1/4-inch cubes
3/4 teaspoon kosher or sea salt
Freshly-ground black pepper, to taste
Preparation
Preheat oven to 400 degrees F.
Rinse the brussels sprouts well in really cold water. Trim the stem ends and remove any discolored or wilted outer leaves. Cut in half from stem to top.
Toss them in a bowl with three tablespoons of olive oil, salt and pepper. Pour them on a lined or non stick sheet pan and roast for 35 to 40 minutes.
Shake the pan from time to time, the outside leaves will become browned and glazed, and crispy.
Heat 1 tablespoon of the olive oil in a saute pan over medium heat. Add the pancetta and saute until brown and crisp, about four minutes. Remove the pancetta to a plate topped with a paper towel to absorb any excess oil and set aside.
Creamy Polenta
Makes four servings.
Ingredients
1 cup polenta (medium-ground cornmeal)
2 cups whole milk
2 cups water
1/2 cup créme fraîche, or sour cream
1/3 cup Asiago cheese, you can also use Parmigiano-Reggiano or even Gruyere
Kosher or sea salt, for salting water
Kosher or sea salt, to taste
Freshly-ground white pepper, to taste
Preparation
In a large saucepan, bring the water and milk to a boil over high heat. Add a couple of pinches of salt and stir.
Slowly add the polenta in a thin stream, whisking continuously. Continue whisking for three or so minutes to prevent lumping.
Lower heat and simmer with the lid half on, whisking every 10 minutes or so, until the polenta is smooth and creamy—about 45 minutes.
Add the créme fraîche, or sour cream, and the Parmigiano-Reggiano. Stir to incorporate.
Add white pepper and salt, to taste.
Adjust consistency by adding more whole milk, if needed.
With the lid on, the polenta can sit for up to 15 minutes until ready to serve.
To serve, place a large spoonful of polenta on a plate. Top with crispy brussels sprouts. Sprinkle with pancetta.
Go on, try it, you may be pleasantly surprised that you really do like the little cabbages.
"Little green balls of death"
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